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Granny chic(复古风潮),一直是时尚界钟爱的设计元素。复古风潮指将旧式衣物穿出时尚味道的流行风潮。老式的羊毛衫、斜纹的中长裙还有肉色紧身裤频频出现在巴黎、纽约、伦敦和米兰的T台上。如今,这一时尚潮流已经走进了繁华商业街区。
数码机身造型要复古,手动镜头外形要复古,不过林林总总的产品,相比起 Lomography 的 New Petzval 镜头,似乎还未深得复古的神髓。最近,Lomo公司大爱复古风,全新推出了一款曾在170多年前的1840年生产的Petzval镜头。并且该公司将Petzval进行了重新设计,并将它应用在今天的佳能和尼康单反上,重获新生的镜头所拍摄的相片则完全具有Lomo爱好者所想要的风格。
New Petzval 参照 1840 年由 Josef Maximilian Petzval 设计的 Petzval 镜头制作,采用相近的光学结构,保持原汁原味的光学特性,并以黄铜打造镜身,数码迷们是不是觉得这像保养极好的古董镜!
Petzval镜头
Petzval镜头是由维也纳大学的数学教授Joseph Petzval教授在1840年发明的,在那个年代,还没有现在的胶片,采用的还是湿板技术,在Petzval镜头出来以前,拍一张照片,即便是在阳光下,曝光时间都要10分钟左右,如果用来拍摄风光之类的“死东西”,似乎问题还不是很大,但是如果要叫人10分钟保持不动,那几乎是不可能的,然而,对于人像摄影的需要却始终都很强烈的,这和我们现在并无太大不同。而当时的镜头光圈都比较小,速度很慢,加上湿板的原因,想快速拍张照片几乎是不可能的。
就在这个时候,Petzval教授的天才发明,给摄影术带来了巨大的进步,Petzval研究出的镜头光圈是F3.6,而当时最快的镜头光圈是F5.6,而且画面中心的成像质量比当时其他镜头要好得多,就像现在Leica的Noctilux50f0.95一样,不仅有超大的光圈,还有极好的全开成像效果,这注定它会是一个里程碑式的光学成就。有尽可能大的光圈才有可能尽量缩短曝光时间,其实,也就是从Petzval开始,人像摄影才有了一个真正的开始。所以,称其为Portrait Lens是有两层含义的,其一是它的成像特点非常适合人像摄影,其二,它才是人类历史上第一支真正有实际应用意义的人像镜头。
Petzval是4片2组的简单结构,因为产生于湿板年代,所以不带快门,光圈控制以插片为主,就是在镜头的中部有个插槽,插片上有个圆孔,每个插片上的空的大小不同,通过插入不同的插片来改变光圈大小。到了后期,开始有了类似现代镜头的叶片光圈,摄影师不用再为保管那一堆小金属片而费心了。调焦是通过调焦轮来进行的。镜筒基本都是以黄铜为材料,通过镜筒上的法兰盘与机身或者镜头板相连。
在银版拍摄代年,Petzval 镜头是摄影史上其中一支最具影响力的镜头,它的最大光圈约为 f/3.5,以现今的眼光看来只属平常,但其实当年絶大部分镜头最大光圈只有 f/16 或更小,Petzval 镜头的出现令拍摄的曝光时间由超过 10 分钟,一下子缩减至 30 秒,可谓是划时代的设计。不过,Petzval 并不是没有缺点,它采用 3 组 4 片的设计,其光学特性令像场弯曲十分明显,景深难以控制。
采用沃特豪斯光圈(Waterhouse aperture)设计,备有 6 片光圈切换,由 f/2.2 至最细 f/16。
Petzval有很厉害的球差,只有焦点处是真正清晰的,而且非常清晰,其余部分随着远离焦点而逐渐模糊,拍摄出的照片,主体非常突出,画面的效果很有戏剧性,特别适合人像,静物小品,或者追求朦胧意境的风光。它对高光的表现非常杰出,反差柔和,层次无比细腻,主体与景物和谐融合在一起。
其外文报导如下:
Some companies have taken to using Kickstarter as almost a default step in their product pipeline, and New York’s Lomography is one of them. The photography focused company has successfully Kickstarted its film scanner for iPhone, and now it’s looking to fund a throwback portrait lens for DSLRs based on the historic “Petzval” 19th century design.
The Petzval lens was the most popular choice for photos in the 19th century, and produces a unique bokeh (background blur) effect with a very narrow depth of field. They’re pretty recognizable once you see some samples taken with them, and the effect is very impressive when paired with the sensors and imaging capabilities of modern DSLRs.
Lomography’s version would retain the signature visual style but also offer up mounts for Canon EF- and Nikon F-compatible cameras, along with a very bring f/2.2 maximum aperture, which beats the classic Petzval’s by at least a full stop. It also has terrific color saturation and high contrast, according to Lomography, and is very sharp in the in-focus area. Vignetting is also intentionally quite noticeable with the Petzval, for an art-house effect.
The Petzval is unique in its design in terms of being intentionally made to capture a super narrow depth-of-field, which is a key ingredient for portrait photos that really pop. And as an awesome bonus just from an aesthetic standpoint, the new Lomography Petzval will be crafted from brass, just like the original.
Lomography has been making lenses and throwback lo-fi cameras for over a decade now, and the Petzval is ambitious but definitely within their scope. The campaign is seeking $100,000, and has over half of that pledged already. Pre-order backer levels start at $300, though few are left at that price, and there are backer levels at $350, $400 and up after that.The trend of companies like Lomography that are established using Kickstarter as a way to poll interest for potential products, while also creating a pre-order channel and defraying some of the risk of building something new is great for consumers, since it pairs trusted brands with an innovation platform. Kickstarter gets a lot of flack for projects that don’t deliver as promised, but it could end up being much more successful on this scale, with medium-sized companies looking for wider audiences, than as a money vacuum for early adopters who are loose with their wallets.